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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 


















































































































































































THE PRACTICAL 
DRY CLEANER 



INCLUDING 

Wet Cleaning, Bleaching, Glove Cleaning, Art of Spotting, Plume 
Cleaning, Curling, Dyeing, Dry Dyeing, Pressing, 

Other Useful Hints 


BY GEO. K. KRESS 

w 



1915 

SEARLE & DRESSLER CO., Inc. 
Allentown, Pa. 





Copyrighted 1915 
BY GEO. K. KRESS 


nr.T |8 1915 

• © Cl. A 414 0 9 8 

n*ub * ( \ 


AUTHOR'S PREFACE 


Having many times in the past ten years felt the need 
of some book that could he placed in the hands of a man 
or woman who wishes to embark in the cleaning, pressing 
and spotting business, or to the tailor who has launched in 
the tailoring business, but wishes to take up Dry Cleaning 
and Spotting as a side line, or the beginner wishing to post 
himself thoroughly on the different methods used in this 
line. The data gathered and compiled in this book covers 
most of the practical methods, and also methods that hare 
never been published in any book of this kind. It is the 
author’s intention that it should be a ready reference, most 
available to all persons interested in dry cleaning, pressing 
and spotting, and in case of emergency where these meth¬ 
ods are to be used in doing high grade work in this line. 
In handling the various subjects the author has endeavored 
to avoid the theoretical, and adhere strictly, in as brief a 
manner as possible, to the practical questions concerning 
the various methods used in this book. I have reasons to 




believe that this hook will save many a person, interested in 
this particular line, time and money, and will make them 
more efficient by using these methods. 

The various methods explained in this book, have been 
in practical use by the author, for fifteen years, and in 
glancing over the book you will note that there are a few 
different methods written in various lines. The reason is, 
at times you may be able to use the first method and if 
that is not successful it might be necessary to use the sec¬ 
ond or third method, if there is one. 


THE AUTHOR. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER I. 


Page 


How to Begin a Dry Cleaning & Pressing Shop .... 7 

Selection of Location 
Advertising, Illustrated 
Advertising Signs, Illustrated 
Advertising in Poetry and Prose 
Prices for Dry Cleaning and Pressing 


CHAPTER II. 

How to do Dry Cleaning, Successful Methods . 27 

Hand Process of Dry Cleaning 
Machine Process of Dry Cleaning 
Cleaning Velvets 
Gasoline Settling 
Dusting Garments 

Formula How to Make Dry Cleaning Soap 


CHAPTER III. 

Wet Cleaning and Bleaching. 35 

Bleaching 

Cleaning of Rubber Coats 
Cleaning of Laces 
Bleaching and Formulas 
Straw Hat Cleaning 

Cleaning and Bleaching of Panama Hats 






Kid Glove Cleaning 


CHAPTER IV. 


Glove Cleaning, Hand Process 
Glove Cleaning, Machine Process 
Removing Perspiration Stains 
Kid and Satin Slipper Cleaning 

CHAPTER V. 

The Art of Spotting.. 

Spotting 

Formulas for Making Spotting Compounds 

CHAPTER VI. 

Plume and Feather Cleaning & Dyeing. 

Plumes and Feathers Dry Cleaned 
Plumes and Feathers Wet Cleaned 
Plumes Dyed in Colors and Black 
Feather Curling 

Plumes and Slippers Dyed Dry Process 

CHAPTER VII. 

How to Press Garments, Illustrated. 

Pressing of Gentlemen's Garments 
Pressing of Ladies' Garments 
Pressing of Ladies’ Waists 
Pressing of Velvets 

CHAPTER VIII. 

Useful Hints to Any Cleaner or Tailor. 

Inspecting Finished Work 
Formulas that are Valuable to the Cleaner 
Manufacturers’ Advertising 
Manufactures’ Advertising 







CHAPTER I. 


How to Begin a Cleaning and Pressing 

Shop 


If you are going to 
start in the Dry Clean¬ 
ing and Pressing busi¬ 
ness, which is an entire¬ 
ly new proposition to 
you or you have a trifle 
of knowledge I suggest 
the following methods. 

If you have a little 
money you can make a 
good start with all the necessary materials. Handling Ma¬ 
terials will assist you greatly in doing satisfactory work. 
Some of the chemicals are inexpensive but others are ex¬ 
pensive but you will not mind the expenses if you can get 
a good start, by following the methods in this book and 
getting as much practical experience as you can you are 
bound to succeed. 

If you live near the business section of the city or 






























































































































town, it might be possible to arrange to open a Dry Clean¬ 
ing and Pressing Shop at your own home, if you live in a 
well populated section, but if you live too far away from 
the business section would suggest that you arrange to get a 
small store room with at least one show window. To start 
in this business, if you can arrange to rent part of an es¬ 
tablished store you will have the advantage of the co-opera¬ 
tion which will be of great assistance to you. If on the 
other hand you wish to start at your home, you can do so 



A Modern Dry Cleaning and Pressing Receiving Office 


at very little expense. Although the business is usually 
three or four times more in the business center, that will 
mean more transit trade, but if you have a good call for 
and delivery service you may be able to get good results at 
any location. Be very careful in selecting a store site, it 
does not necessarily have to be on the main street but you 


8 






ought to select a well traveled street. Some large manu¬ 
facturers who have five hundred or more branch stores 
scattered throughout the entire United States. Select a 
store site and station a man inside the window who counts 
every pedestrian that passes the store, in this way they fig¬ 
ure out whether it would pay them to open a store in that 



A Modern Delivery for the Modern Dry Cleaner 


locality or not. A great many Cleaners have built up a 
very large business by having well located stores. If you 
have a poor location you must spend the difference in Rent 
to Advertise your Business. 

ADVERTISING. 

v •. 

After having selected your store site you want to start 
and advertise and let the people know you have opened a 
Dry Cleaning & Pressing Shop, arrange to have your Win- 


9 



dow lettered like JONES, THE DRY CLEANER, SMITH, 
the CLEANER, Wilsons DRY CLEANING SHOP, Etc., 
where others prefer to use names like Swiss Dry Cleaners, 
The Star Cleaners, The Best Cleaners. Have your window 
lettered in any way possible; if this cannot be arranged, 
have a large sign put out across the Pavement, Electric 
Signs are very good for Cleaners, also arrange to have a 
series of small signs made, size 11x14 or larger as you de¬ 
sire. 



Attractive 

Window 

Signs 



10 














Attractive 

Window 

Signs 



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Attractive Window Signs. 

If you wish to use Wording like this, Have Your Gown 
Made New for Summer by Our Dry Cleaning, Why Not 
Have Your Suit Pressed To-day, Your Skirt Will Be New 
by Our Dry Cleaning, Send Your Gloves To Us and Let Us 
Keep Them in Perfect Condition Until Worn Out, We Dry 
Clean Portieres and Curtains, Have Your Coat Dry Cleaned 

and Pressed by the-Method, We Dry Clean and 

Press Overcoats to Look Like New, Etc. 

Advertising for Signs in Poetry and Prose. 

Dry Cleaning here the Best, 

Really it has stood the Test. 

Yes, French Process is used, 

Clothes never are abused. 

Ladies’ and Gent’s work done in style, 


12 














Even we do suggest a trial, 

And we chase the Dirt away, 

Now satisfaction it holds sway. 

It pays to bring your garments here, 

Now to make them swell appear, 

Garments here are cleaned divine, 

In a way that’s simply fine. 

A Clean Song. 

Dry Cleaning that’s our song, 

Come here and you can’t go wrong, 

French Process, best you’ve seen, 

It Cleans your clothes Clean. 

Chorus : 

May we merely have a trial, 

It is surely worth your while, 

And for Men and Ladies, too, 

May we make your old Clothes New. 

We could sing you a song of the Merits of our Dry 
Cleaning Service, but as pleased people are doing it every 
day, we content ourselves with asking you to let us prove its 

s 

superiority for Ladies’ and Gent’s Garments. 

Last Year’s Garments. 

It’s time to look ’em up, 

What’s the use of disowning them, 


13 


When our French Dry Cleaning will make them 
As good as when you first bought them. 

It means money in your pocket 
And neatness in your dress, 

Don’t you think that combination pays. 



A Very Good Dry Cleaning Sign 


In the Spring your fancy turns to Clothes. We mean 
those last year’s Clothes that must be Dry Cleaned. That’s 
where - we “COME IN” for satisfaction. It’s up to you to 
“COME IN” and see us and let us fix ’em up. 

They say UNEEDA Biscuit, 

But what you need is here, 

Exquisite Dry Cleaning 
To make you neat appear. 

I wonder who’s kissing her now, 

I wonder whom she does caress, 


14 








But we really do not care 
For we did Dry Clean her dress. 

Mary had a little lamb, 

The dirtiest ever seen, 

Mary brought the lamb to us, 
We Dry Cleaned it clean. 



An Attractive Dry Cleaning Sign 


The gown that is best 
And neat makes you appear, 
If it is merely soiled, 

Do bring it in here, 

We will chase the dirt away, 
And to just please you 
’Phone to us this very day, 
We’ll make it look like new. 


15 








Attractive Signs Used Often In Your Windows Will 

Certainly Bring Results. 

Window signs should be changed, at least once a week, 
and if possible, you should arrange to show some of your 
work in your window. If you get launched in this business, 
you will find that it will be a hard thing for you to shew 
cleaned articles in your windows, because customers will 
object, but where it is possible, work should be shown, es¬ 
pecially to a beginner in this line. Your windows should 
be brilliantly lighted at night, and you should arrange to 



i»S*| 


Night View of a Display Window of a Dry Cleaner 


have cards printed to hand to your friends, and place same 
in all business houses, explaining just what you really do. 

Most Dry Cleaners, in starting a new business, usually can- 


16 








vass or send a canvasser from house to house, to solicit busi¬ 
ness. This is one of the cheapest and the best way known 
to get a business properly started. 

Window Display Idea. 

A good stunt used for Display work is to get a pair of 
White Trousers and wear them and get them good and 
dirty; put oil and grease on your hands and wipe them on 
the trousers; make them dirty all over, take a good sharp 
pocket-knife and rip the trousers in half, clean the one half 
and sew them together and have a sign made saying, 
These Trousers Were Ripped Apart and Half Was Cleaned, 
Note the Difference. Hang the trousers in your window and 
put the sign on or below it. 

Many a beginner, who knows very little about this 
business, will probably get discouraged the first week or 
two, but there is only one thing to think about, and it does 
not make any difference whether you launch in this busi¬ 
ness, or whether you do not, determination will make any 
one succeed; don’t leave your friends discourage you; stick 
to it, and if you have the ability to stick, you will surely get 
there; remember that you are a new-comer in this particu¬ 
lar line, and people don’t know that you are on the earth, 
unless you make a bold front at it, and make a big noise, 
if possible. If time hangs very heavily on your hands, don’t 
sit around reading the newspapers, but go from house to 
house, present your card to the house-wife, requesting her to 


17 


give yon some dry cleaning and pressing for her family; 
tell her that you will call for and deliver any work that she 
has in this particular line. In doing canvassing work of 
this kind, always be neatly dressed, and if you can possibly 
afford a telephone, by all means get one, as the telephone 
to-day is the biggest producer possible, in this particular 
line. Many times a customer will turn to the telephone 
directory to look up a cleaner, to have work done; further¬ 
more, if the house-wife has your card with the telephone 
number on it, it is far more likely to bring business than if 
she were obliged to bring the work to you. Some cleaners 
prefer to have price lists printed on the back of their cards; 
it is a good idea, where others do not believe in doing it at 
all. Those little things you shall decide for yourself. 

Newspaper Advertising. 

Newspaper advertising is very good, but advertising 
copy must be changed most every day, and in large cities 
large spaces must be used, but in smaller towns, very often 
a small space or a card in the newspapers will help you a 
great deal, but out-door advertising, such as signs posted 
and distributed on cars, and circulars always are very good 
advertising for the Dry Cleaners and Pressers. Some clean¬ 
ers consider personal letters, and circular advertising, 
postal-cards, etc., the best advertising. In sending out 
finished work always include some pamphlet or card, or ad¬ 
vertising of some kind; it is all free advertising, and very 


18 


often will bring back another job. Here are a few adver¬ 
tising paragraphs which will do well for cards: 

Send your Clothes, etc., to the-Cleaners; 

Some are wise and some are otherwise; 

The Wise send their Clothes to the Dry Cleaners; 

Simply surpasses and pleases the masses; 

Work done by the-Cleaners. 

In the spring a young man’s fancy turns to thoughts of 

-, having his suits Dry Cleaned by the - 

methods, two heads are better than one in a kissing match. 

Our Dry Cleaning is matchless; - Dry Cleaners 

will renew your cast-off garments, clean them to look like 

new, and return them for further service. -Dry 

Cleaners. 


19 








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ADDITIONAL POINTERS. 


If you have gone this far in selecting your store site 
and doing your advertising, the next thing to do is to give 
every customer the best possible service in your power, al¬ 
ways have the work finished when you promised it, as noth¬ 
ing will hurt your business more than a disappointed cus¬ 
tomer. Deliver a suit at four o ’clock, if it was promised for 
that time, never disappoint your customers, if they want 
their work by a certain specified time, as very often your 
customer wishes to wear a suit or dress for a special oc¬ 
casion, and that is the reason why you received the job in 
the first place; this is not in every case, but in a great 
many cases, service is one of the most important things in 
any business. Be courteous and gentlemanly at all times. 
Some customers may be unreasonable, but you must expect 
to run up against tough propositions in this line. Always 
give your customers the benefit of the doubt, even if you 
should happen to lose some money by doing so, you will 
make it up through that very customer. A dissatisfied cus¬ 
tomer can do you more harm than any thing else. Do your 
work in the best possible manner, and if you make mistakes, 
do not feel that all opportunity is lost, but try it again, you 
will not make the same mistake twice. Try to do a cash 
business, as nearly as possible, but where you have trade 
who desires to pay at the end of the month, you must af¬ 
ford to trust them. Always have your shop clean, and to 
look spic and span. Experience in this business is what 



22 


counts; you will find in dry cleaning and pressing the first 
few jobs will be a difficult task to you, but a little experi¬ 
ence will make things a great deal easier; don’t forget your 
determination to succeed. 



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Another good Postal Card to Mail to Auto Owners to Solicit Cleaning 








A SCALE OF PRICES USED BY MOST OF THE 
LARGE DRY CLEANERS IN THE U. S. 


Dry Cleaned and Pressed. 

Gent’s Suits.$1.25 to $2.00 

Gent’s Coats. 1.00 to 1.25 

Gent’s Trousers.60 to .75 

Fancy Vests.50 

Overcoats . 1.25 to 2.50 

Ladies’ Coat Suits. 2.00 to 3.50 

Ladies’ Skirts. 1.00 to 1.50 

Ladies’ Coats. 1.00 to 2.50 

Ladies’ Waists.75 to 1.50 

Fancy Dresses. 1.50 to 2.50 

Sweaters.75 to 1.50 

Chenile and Tapestry Curtains. 1.50 to 2.50 

Kid Gloves, per pair.10 to .25 

Pressing and Sponging. 

Gent’s Suits.50 

Gent’s Coats.35 

Gent’s Trousers.15 to .25 

Overcoats.75 to 1.50 

Ladies’ Coat Suits.75 to 1.25 

Ladies’ Skirts.50 to .75 

Ladies’ Coats.50 to 1.00 


25 























Plumes and Feathers dyed or cleaned and curled, 50 cents 
up, according to the size. 

Kid Slippers Cleaned, 35 and 50 cents. Slippers dyed, 
75 cents. 


26 


CHAPTER II. 


Hand Process 

Take a small tub, pour 
in about five gallons of 
gasoline and about two 
ounces of chloroform or 
sulphuric ether, forty 
drops of Aqua Am¬ 
monia. Before placing a 
garment in the cleaning 
fluid, look the garment 
over thoroughly, and 
scrub with a stiff bristle brush, scrub every spot and if gar¬ 
ment contains paint, loosen paint with Chloroform, of any 

well known paint remover. Always clean white or light 
garments first, after same is spotted as much as can be 
spotted, immerge same in tub and work up and down by 
squeezing and squeezing again, or if possible get one of 
those cheap hand suction washers, fastened on the handle 
of a broom. Lots of large cleaners are using these suc¬ 
tion hand washers to dry clean fancy costumes. Keep 



27 





garment moving in the tub for fifteen to twenty minutes, 
wring garment out thoroughly, and hang out in the sun 
to dry, as it will remove the odor, and make garment look 
like new. Clean dark garments the same way as light gar¬ 
ments, but remember, always clean light garments while 
gasoline is thoroughly clean. This same solution can be 
used for tans, following the whites, grays, light then dark, 
blue and black garments, even if solution gets very dark, 
it will be all right to clean dark blue and black garments. 
In cleaning very dirty garments after light garments have 

been cleaned, add forty or fifty drops more of Aqua Am¬ 
monia. Dry cleaning should be done where there is ab¬ 
solutely no fire or flame or artificial light, except electric, 
as gasoline fumes are very explosive. In cleaning men’s 
clothing or dark garments, same should be worked in solu¬ 
tion of gasoline and chloroform from thirty to forty min¬ 
utes, and if garment is very dirty, same should be rinsed 
thoroughly in clean gasoline before hanging in the sun. 

Silks can be cleaned by the same methods, only scrub¬ 
bing should be done with dry cleaning soap, and thoroughly 
clean gasoline should be used. After garments have been 
thoroughly cleaned by this method, by which any garment 
can be cleaned, but some garments are handled more care¬ 
fully than others. Do not use any Aqua Ammonia in gaso¬ 
line solution, for colored silk dresses or waists, use chloro¬ 
form or Sulphuric Ether, about two to four ounces, de¬ 
pending on garment to be cleaned. Some cleaners prefer to 


28 


heat gasoline for hand cleaning processes; this might im¬ 
prove same in different climates, but the author has found 
very little difference by heating gasoline or by not heating 
it. After garments have been thoroughly dry cleaned, you 
will note spots or stains in same, this will come under the 
heading of spotting, which will follow in the next chapter. 

How to Settle Your Gasoline. 

After garments have been cleaned your gasoline or 
cleaning solution will be dirty, pour same in a can and make 
a settling solution of one-half pound of Sal Soda and two 
ounces of Sulphuric Acid, in about a quart of water; be 
very careful about mixing acid and soda as same will boil 
up. Boil same until soda is thoroughly dissolved, cool and 
pour in your gasoline. Do not disturb for eight or ten hours, 
it "will settle a light amber color or almost white, almost like 
new gasoline. In taking gasoline from this can after same 
is settled, pour very carefully that you do not stir the refuse 
at the bottom. This gasoline settler can be used two or 
three times with dirty gasoline. Gasoline can be used in 
this way until it evaporates. 

The Best Gasoline Settler. 

Gasoline Settler for 100 Gallons of Gasoline: Sulphuric 
Acid, 3 oz.; Ammonia, 3 oz.; Costic Soda, oz. The Am¬ 
monia and Costic Soda reacts on the Sulphuric Acid, and 


29 


by using this formula you can settle gasoline very quickly 
and clearly. 

Process for Cleaning with Gasoline without Dipping 

the Goods. 

This is a very simple and effective process, for cleaning 
white beaver hats, gloves and other articles, which would 
lose shape if entire article were wet; cover a small quantity 
of coarse corn meal with gasoline, and apply with a soft 
cloth to article to be cleaned. It will leave no water marks, 
and will render the article as good as new. This method can 
be used with anything from a fine lace of silk waist, willow 
plumes, rugs, etc. But use coarse corn meal. 

Dry Cleaning with a Machine. 

If you can equip yourself with a dry cleaning machine 
and an extractor, you will find this simple method to be a 
very good one. First, be sure that you have a good dry 
cleaning soap; also be sure that your gasoline contains no 
water. Some dry cleaners, to make sure that their gasoline 
contains no water, take some old turkish towels, or rags, 
and run same in dry cleaning machine, for ten or fifteen 
minutes, before running garments; this will take all the 
moisture or water out of the gasoline. Add gasoline to dry 
cleaning soap till same is a milky white or creamy white 
color, use this solution to scour your spots on garment, be¬ 
fore putting same in dry cleaning washer, also remove ail 


30 


dust, tobacco, matches, etc., from the pockets, and inside 
linings, as this will often cause a dark spot in a garment ; 

after same is cleaned, gasoline should 
be placed in the washer and add to 
ten gallons of gasoline one two-quart 
dipper of this soap solution. Some 
cleaners prefer to add an ounce or 
two of powdered borax in their gaso¬ 
line which sometimes will help Alkali 
or Beer or Wine Stains in clothes; al¬ 
low same to wash from forty minutes 
to one hour, according to how dirty 
the garments are, dirty garments are 
usually washed at least one hour; if 
proper care is taken in using good 
gasoline, no rinsing need to be done 
except on white goods, where soap 
must be rinsed out. Extremely good 
results may be had by following these 
instructions. On white serge, silks, 
satins and laces, and no bleaching will 
be necessary, unless the garments contain yellow brown 

stains from acid, fruits, perfume, etc. 

After garments have been thoroughly dry cleaned, same 

should be thoroughly dried in the sun. A dust wheel or a 
drying tumbler seems almost necessary in this business. 
Would advise you to purchase a dust wheel. A great many 

31 



cleaners have manufactured their own dust wheels, before 
dust wheels were on the market. After garments are thor¬ 
oughly dry and odorless, same should be spotted as instruc¬ 
tions given in the next chapter. 

The few following spotting hints are very valuable. Be¬ 
fore garments are dry cleaned for paint use Chloroform, 
Clorozone, or Carbon, Tetrachloride, Acetone, Aethole, 
Carbonby-Sulphite, Ether or Sulphuric Ether, these are all 
good paint or varnish removers. To remove chewing-gum 
use wood-alcohol, and for very hard varnish or paint use 
Fusel Oil. 

In taking a man’s or lady’s suit that is full of paint 
spots, would advise to soak same in turpentine for a few 
days; turpentine is a very good paint remover, but works 
very slowly. After paint is removed, garment should be 
dry cleaned. Other spotting before dry cleaning, can very 
easily be removed with ordinary benzine soap. Some clean¬ 
ers prefer to do their spotting after garments are dry 
cleaned, but most cleaners do spotting, what can be spotted, 
before a garment is dry cleaned, as very often, by spot¬ 
ting garment before same is dry cleaned, it will save an 
extra dry cleaning of the garment. If garments have paint 
spots, after same are dry cleaned, they should be dry 
cleaned again to remove the rings that paint remover leaves. 

Cleaning Velvets. 

The proper cleaning of velvets requires great care to 
avoid damaging the pile and if the best results are to be 

32 


obtained, velvets must always have a benzine wash and it is 
often necessary to follow this up with a wet wash, especial • 
ly if the garments are light colored. Garments of dark 
colored velvet are often very badly stained and for this 
class of work it is a good practice to brush them at once 
with water and then rinse them thoroughly. Garments of 
silk velvet may be wet washed if they are so dirty as to re¬ 
quire it. Velvets having an upright pile, especially the 
long haired sorts, require different treatment. Fortunately, 
however, this class of goods are, as a rule, never badly 
soiled and what stains do exist can generally be brushed 
away with water. The brush must pass over the velvet al¬ 
ways in the same direction and the water on the brush 
must be renewed every few strokes. To prevent the stiffen 
ing of the backing, due to dressing from the pile, the water 
must be gotten rid of as quickly as possible after the stains 
have disappeared, by the application of strong spirits and 
with the use of a brush. All trimmings should be removed 
from the garments during the cleaning process and care 
should always be exercised when handling this material. 
The garments should never be thrown over a rack or a sup¬ 
port, but should be hung from a hook. Furthermore, vel¬ 
vets must never be placed in an extractor. After rinsing, 
the goods should be allowed to drain and while they are 
drying, the position of them should be changed frequently. 
In drying, a moderate heat must be used, otherwise streaks 
will develop, and it will then be necessary to treat the gar- 


33 


ments over again. It is necessary to say that velvet should 
not be handled more than is necessary. 

Dry Cleaning for Cotton Goods. 

In ten gallons of gasoline use a half to one pound of 
dry cleaning soap (ammonia dry cleaning soap is the best). 
Scrub garments thoroughly with soap and wash in ma¬ 
chine or with hand washer as explained in dry cleaning 
methods for ten to twenty minutes and extract same after 
rinsing thoroughly and hang in sun to let thoroughly dry. 

Taking the Dust Out of Garments. 

Some cleaners brush garments before dry cleaning, this 
is very good especially if you clean them by the Hand Pro¬ 
cess as it will not make the Gasoline too dirty; brush the 
clothes well and shake them. If you are equipped with a 
Dry Cleaning Machine you ought to also have a dust wheel. 
You can place your garments in the Cleveland dust wheel 
and run from twenty to thirty minutes and clothes will oe 
thoroughly dusted and brushed. If you have a dust wheel 
run your dark clothes, men’s suits, etc., before dry cleaning 
and thirty minutes after dry cleaning, taking the clothes 
right from the extractor and run in dust wheel, this will 
remove the lint, dust, and also take all gasoline and soap 
odor out of the clothes. A dust wheel is a big saver of gaso¬ 
line and labor. 

Dry Cleaners using the Garment Duster with the brush¬ 
es; claim they save 50% on Gasoline; handle men’s suits 

34 


and overcoats at an increased profit; clean dark clothes 
without rinsing; airs and takes odor out of garments with¬ 
out steam coils, takes the lint off of garments, etc. 

HOW TO MAKE A GOOD DRY CLEANING SOAP. 

Use one quart of Ammonia, and one pint of Wendoline 
Oil, and mix thoroughly together, then stir in three gallons 
of gasoline, this will make a good stock solution, to be used 
as your work requires. You will find that the three ingre¬ 
dients will mix thoroughly by this method. HOW TO USE 
THIS SOAP—For cotton goods, dark woolen goods, etc., 
which is very dirty, this is an excellent soap, to use on a 
basis of one and one-half gallons of the soap solution to five 
gallons of gasoline. To colored goods, as tan, light blue, etc., 
only use about half of the amount stated on account of the 
ammonia. This formula is used by a great many of the Dry 
Cleaners in the United States and Europe. 

Benzine Soap that Will Mix with Water. 

Oleic Acid, Oil Benne, equal parts. Mix Ammonia to 
make it thick. Mix it with water or Benzine. This soap 
is sold by a great many Manufacturers as an auto soap, and 
scouring soap, and is very good for grease spots, etc., or 
makes a good Dry Cleaning Soap. 


35 


CHAPTER III. 


Wet Cleaning or Scouring 

Take an ordinary tub 
that takes from twenty 
to thirty gallons of wa¬ 
ter, and about two 
pounds Wyandotte Soda, 
and one dipper full of 
chip soap solution, this 
chip soap solution is 
made up of one barrel 
of water to two dippers 
of olive oil, or white chip soap, heat same to a temperature 
of about 110 degrees or hand warm, immerge white serge or 
woolens in same, let soak for about five minutes, lay same 
out on a flat table and scour, with solution of soap, all over, 
and be very careful to scour inside of trousers, also pockets, 
turn pockets inside out, rinse same in soda bath and give 
same a rinsing in three different waters of the same temper¬ 
ature, extract garments and hang in the sun. In scouring 
dark garments, such as grays and blacks, temperature can 



36 












be about thirty to forty degrees higher. Rinses should be 
same temperature as first dip. This is an old method of 
scouring but it is one of the most successful, and used by a 
great many cleaners in the country. In case you cannot 
obtain olive oil, chip soap or white chip soap, use Fels 
Naphtha; by chipping same; this will make a very good soap 
solution for scouring purposes; also be sure in scouring 
garments to look for tobacco, candy, pieces of lead pencil, 
matches, etc., as these articles very often leave stains. This 
scouring solution can be used for lace curtains and blankets. 

Wet Cleaning of Delicate Laces. 

An excellent way to wash small pieces of fine, expensive 
and delicate lace, is to take a large bottle or dimijohn 
(glass), cover it smoothly with white muslin, basted on; 
then sew the lace tightly on to the cloth at both ends, 
commencing at the bottom. Soap the lace well, and pro¬ 
ceed to wash it by rubbing lightly and working in with the 
fingers in suds not too hot. Have prepared a kettle of 
cold suds; put bottle and all in, bringing it right up to a 
boil; then take it out, rinse well, and hang the bottle up to 
dry in the sun, if possible. 

Bleaching with Peroxide. 

Make up a solution of 1-3 ammonia and 2-3 peroxide of 
hydrogen in a pail. Let this mixture stand about one hour. 
Be sure to take all buttons off the goods you intend to 


37 


bleach. Leave garment in peroxide bleach two or three 
minutes, then boil another pail of hot water and oxalic acid, 
using about a hand full of oxalic acid, and rinse the skirt 
thoroughly with it; after which bleach with permanag- 
anate and sulphurous acid, and you will get the proper re¬ 
sults. 

Bleaching. 

Years ago there was a great deal of bleaching done by 
the dry cleaners, but dry cleaning methods have advanced 
so far that very little bleaching is done in some establish¬ 
ments to-day. To bleach cotton or linen garments, mix one 
pound of chloride of lime with two gallons of cold water, 
and dissolve one pound of Sal Soda in one gallon of water, 
mix the two solutions together, let settle and use same for 
bleaching. After bleaching same, take a tub of clear water 
and add about two ounces of Sulphuric Acid, rinse thor¬ 
oughly in this solution until odor of chloride of lime disap¬ 
pears, then rinse thoroughly in cold water. 

Some of the older cleaners call this Chloride of Lime 
and Sal Soda, Javelle Water. 

In bleaching woolens use two ounces Thioxodine for 
flannels and serges, five gallons of luke warm water and 
add one ounce of Sulphuric Acid, this is an excellent bleach 
for white flannel trousers, serges, woolens and feathers. 
Bleach bath to Thioxidine for ten pounds of goods, dissolve 
one-half pound of Thioxidine in sufficient luke warm water 


38 


to cover goods, then add three ounces of Sulphuric Acid, 
mix well, and allow the goods to remain in bleach for an 
hour, rinse thoroughly, afterwards hang in the sun. Some 
cleaners use Berganganate of Potash for bleaching, but 
other cleaners would not use same, as it very often effects 
the texture of the garment. 

Cleaning of Rubber Coats. 

The first thing to be remembered 
in the cleaning of rubber coats is 
that they must be cleaned cold and 
the best way to do this is to brush 
the coats with soda and ammoni- 
ated water and after rinsing hang 
them up to dry. Soap, benzine, 
benzol or other fat dissolving mat¬ 
ters must be avoided in the clean¬ 
ing process as they also dissolve the 
rubber. However, a decoction of 
soap bark is highly recommended and indeed there is no 
better cleanser known for this class of work. Rubber coats 
must never be dried in a hot room, but always in a room of 
ordinary temperature or else in the open air. In the ma¬ 
jority of cases ironing is not necessary, but a moderately 
heated iron run over the goods will not injure them in the 
least. 

In the dying of rubber coats there is hardly any other 



39 




color than black to be considered. The handling of rubber 
coats in this regard is always a matter of difficulty and such 
goods should be examined thoroughly before they are ac¬ 
cepted, to determine whether or not the goods and the rub¬ 
ber parts are in good condition. If not the job should be 
refused. There are four kinds of rubber coats to consider, 
all wool, half wool, cotton and silk. 

Bleaching with Benzoinite. 

It is best to make up the bleach beforehand as the same 
bleach can be used for all purposes. 

How to Make the Bleach. 

For every gallon of cold water add 
iy 2 pints of Benzonite, 

3 ounces of Bioxolate of Potash. 

Bleaching white flannels, serges, outing flannel or any 
woolen or silk goods. Dissolve in one pint of boiling water 
three ounces of Permanganate of Potash and now add 
enough cold water to make it one gallon, and for every 
other gallon of water dissolve three ounces more. 

Immerse the goods in this solution for ten minutes, 
until the goods are a deep brown. Take out and squeeze 
out liquor and without rinsing, immerse in the Benzonite 
bleach and work the goods until the brown disappears. Take 
out and wash in cold or lukewarm water. 


40 


Bleaching Yellow or Stained Laces. 

Pour out a little of the bleach and leave the goods to 
be bleached in from four to five minutes, or if very yellow 
six to ten minutes. Wash thoroughly in lukewarm water. 

Benzonite is absolutely neutral and does not tender the 
finest goods, and is much cheaper than any bleaching liquor 
or sulphurous acid. 

Bleaching Formula. 

Should there be stains that seem to be impossible to 
remove by using the previous bleaching process that was 
submitted, would suggest that you try this bleaching for¬ 
mula. In one bottle, use Bioxilate of Potash, one ounce 
dissolved in one pint of water, to which add one-fourth 
pint of Sulphuric Acid, then fill bottle with water to make 
one quart when prepared. Apply this carefully by using a 
long stick, size of a pointed pencil, let the goods dry, and if 
after a reasonable time, stains do not disappear, use some 
Permanganate of Potash, that has been dissolved in another 
bottle, by the use of a stick or a tuft of cloth, then apply 
the Sulphurous compound. These stains may need treating 
over and over several times, owing to the stubborness of the 
stain, but must be sponged out with Ascetic Acid water 
afterwards. 

PERSPIRATION STAINS may be removed with the 
above treatment; by being extremely careful it can be used 


41 


on colored goods, but is best for white and cream goods 
only. Silk, woolen or cotton can be treated with this method 
very safely. Burn or scorch can be removed with the Sul¬ 
phurous compound from tan, gray, etc., if applied very 
lightly. A garment should be left hang to dry, then treated 
again, this treatment sometimes taking a day or two to 
remove a scorch. 


Straw Hat Cleaner. 

Forty grains of Oxalic Acid, thirty grains of Chloride 
of Lime, one ounce of Peroxide, eight ounces of Distilled 
Water. Sponge hat through with solution, lay out in suti 
to bleach. 


Another Straw Hat Cleaner. 

This straw hat cleaner can be used without removing 
the band on the hats, and has been used with very good 
results. Brush hat thoroughly, then sponge all off gently 
with a spotting soap, made of four ounces Neutral Soap, 
two ounces Grain Alcohol, do not wet the straw through; 
take up the dampness with cheese cloth; mix Oxalic Acid, 
by adding Oxalic Acid with Ascetic Acid, will not absorb 
any more of the Oxalic. Fix three parts of Alcohol to one 
part of Acid; sponge hat with the above and rub brisklv 
with cheese cloth, but do not allow hat to get too wet; this 
saves blocking, and is ready to use in a short time. The 

soap is very useful for many things, the acid is also use¬ 
ful in removing stains. 


42 


Bleaching Panama Hats. 


1. Put on a block and soak in hot water for one hour. 

2. Scrub thoroughly in Benzonite bleach and wash 
twice in lukewarm water. 

3. Immerse hat or hats in the Permanganate of Potash 
solution, as described for bleaching flannels. 

4. Take out of the Permanganate of Potash solution 
and without rinsing enter into the Benzonite solution, and 
work until all the brown has disappeared. If along the edge 
of the hat the brown does not disappear quick enough, use 
a little brush. Wash the hat twice in lukewarm water. Ab¬ 
sorb as much moisture with as little a sponge as possible, 
and then cover the hat with sulphur flour and allow to dry; 
when thoroughly dry brush off the sulphur. 


43 

















. 

* 




i I 






















CHAPTER IV. 


Glove Cleaning 



Satisfactory glove 
cleaning is such a sensi¬ 
tive process that cleaners 
must give it special at¬ 
tention to secure contin¬ 
ued patronage from cus¬ 
tomers. Gloves are, in 
many cases, given to the 
cleaner as a trial, and if 
they are returned to the 
owner in good condition, his confidence is gained, which is 
of no small value as an advertising medium. 

In my opinion glove cleaning should not be slighted 
in the least and for this reason a firm that advertises to 
clean gloves for five or ten cents per pair cannot give them 
the same care and attention as can the cleaner who receives 
fifteen or twenty-five cents a pair. 

As white gloves are always appropriate for all occa¬ 
sions and are more easily soiled than colored ones, they con¬ 
stitute the bulk of the cleaners glove business. White gloves 

45 













also require more attention in the cleaning process and I 
therefore allow from twelve to twenty-four hours for this 
class of work. 

Gloves brought to me for cleaning are marked with or¬ 
dinary fountain pen ink. This ink will not vanish in chemi¬ 
cals as readily as do some others. The gloves are first put 
to soak from eight to twenty-four hours in a solution com¬ 
pounded as follows: One gallon gasoline, one-half pound 
soap, one tablespoonful of neatsfoot oil, one tablespoonful of 
alcohol, one-fourth teaspoonful of powdered alum, one- 
fourth teaspoon of acetone and four tablespoonfuls of car¬ 
bon tetrachloride. They are then taken out and placed in 
a glove machine and run for one hour. If at the end of 
this time any of the gloves still have perspiration stains on 
them, a few rubs between the fingers will relieve them of the 
hard, stiff condition, after which the stains may easily be 
brushed out. This process will not leave the gloves peeled 
and with rough tips, as is often the case when care is not 
taken. The gloves are then rinsed thoroughly in four gal¬ 
lons of gasoline to which has been added one-half teaspoon¬ 
ful of white flake artist’s tube paint, after which the gloves 
are squeezed free of gasoline by hand. They are then taken, 
one at a time, and beaten over the open hand and are hung 
in the open air to dry. Gloves should not be placed in an 
extractor as they are liable to be streaked by being thus 
handled. When the gloves are dry they are placed on a 
form and rubbed downward with a piece of flannel. No 
glove department in a dry cleaning establishment is com- 


plete unless it is equipped with a glove machine, and one 
steam or electric hand form for reshaping gloves. 

Talcum powder is never used on white gloves, as it rubs 
off and shows plainly on dark garments. There is no cause 
for complaint on this score when the paint is used as de¬ 
scribed above. 

If cleaners will put gloves brought to them through the 
above process, I am sure they will be pleased with the re 
suits, as will also their patrons, and better prices can be com¬ 
manded for the work. 

Another Glove Cleaning Method. 

We find many cleaners who do not try to remove per¬ 
spiration or water marks from kid gloves. This is a mis¬ 
take, as the glove work is often a trade-getter if properly 
turned out. While gloves are in the process of cleaning, 
either by machine or hand, one should look them over care¬ 
fully, apply dry cleaning soap direct to the spot, rub be¬ 
tween the fingers as above. Keep the glove moist with gaso¬ 
line and rinse well. After dry, use French chalk and the 
gloves w r ill meet with the approval of the most critical. 

Colored gloves should be carefully and quickly brushed 
by hand and when dry use a corresponding color of talcum 
to match the color of the glove. 

Hand Glove Cleaning. 

Cleaning gloves by hand is done by a great many clean¬ 
ers to-day. Let gloves soak in gasoline with about two 


47 


ounces of acetone to one gallon of gasoline. Let gloves soak 
in this solution for about one hour or more. Some cleaners 
soak them over night. After soaking take gloves out and 
stretch on a stick that will fit fingers and scrub same with a 
stiff bristle brush; it may be necessary to use dry cleaning 
soap, depending on the condition of the gloves. After fin¬ 
gers are thoroughly scrubbed, lay glove flat on a piece of 
glass or clean board and scrub arm of glove. After same 
is thoroughly scrubbed, rinse and clean in gasoline (distill 
if possible) and hang same in the sun or in a warm place 
till same is thoroughly dry. Some cleaners rub gloves dry 
with a piece of white cloth and then hang up. 

Removing Perspiration from Gloves. 

Take one ounce of acetone, one ounce of gasoline and 
pour this on a small amount of powdered alum to make 
like paste. Use this paste to soften perspiration in gloves, 
but must be worked thoroughly with the fingers. This 
method must sometimes be repeated a few times to get stains 
entirely out. Some cleaners use miz-fay in connection with 
acetone in removing perspiration stains. Another good for¬ 
mula for removing perspiration stains is, make a paste of 
zinc oxide and fusel oil. 

A Positive Perspiration Remover. 

Oleic Acid, one ounce; Wood Alcohol, one ounce; Am¬ 
monia (strong), 14 ounce; Zinc Oxide Commercial, one 
ounce. Scrub spots with this formula, and clean after- 

48 


wards. This formula will remove water spots from gloves 
or any fine leathers. 

Cleaning Kid and Satin Slippers. 

Soak same in gasoline with dry cleaning soap added 
for about ten to thirty minutes; after same is soaked, scrub 
thoroughly with a stiff bristle brush and rinse in clean gaso¬ 
line. Hang in sun or warm place to dry; if leather or satin 
loosens from heel use white librarypaste for same. If slip¬ 
pers are badly worn and rough after cleaning, make a paste 
of two-thirds white talcum powder, one-third of zinc oxide, 
a few drops of fusel oil and chloroform enough to make 
paste-like; spread this paste over slipper evenly and let dry 
thoroughly and brush same with a soft white brush; heat 
a piece of chamois and gently rub slipper till same is pol¬ 
ished to look like new. Only use this for kid or suede 
slippers. 


49 





’ 

. 



r« 































CHAPTER V. 


Spotting. 

I consider the spotter 
the most important per¬ 
son in the deanery, and 
by following the simple 
methods described below, 
and a little experience, 
will help a great deal. 

Proper Chemicals for 
all Kinds of Spots. 

Experience will teach 
you, in a short time, to use the required chemical that will 
give the best results. For this reason we give a general list 
of the various chemicals used, and a great many spotting 
formulas, which have been used by most of the old cleaners 
in the United States and Europe. These chemicals can be 
bought at a wholesale drug house, or any chemical supply 
house, or any house that handles cleaners’ and dyers’ sup¬ 
plies. 

To remove chewing-gum spots, dissolve same in ordi¬ 
nary white or denatured wood Alcohol. 



51 







For removing paint, varnish and gum, Acetone is very 
good. 

For removing paint, varnish, grease, etc., use Aethole. 

For Pharaphine stains, Sterine, Shellac and different 
fats, use a mixture of one-half Chloroform and one-half 
Alcohol. 

For removing hard oil stains, tar and pitch, use Benzol. 

For hard paint, varnish and linseed oil, use Carbon-by- 
Sulphite. This can be used to remove spots from leather 
goods, and is highly inflammable. 

For grease, varnish, pharaphine, pitch, rubber, road- 
oil, oil stains, use Carbon Tetrachloride. This is not inflam¬ 
mable. 

For ordinary paint stains, Chloroform is a good solvent. 

For very hard paint stains, use fusel oil; spot must be 
saturated, rubbed or scratched with finger nail or bone- 
scraper. If you get a painter’s suit which is very much 
spotted with paint and is very much hardened, soak same 
in Turpentine for three or four days; this is a very slow 
process, but effective. To remove odor of Turpentine, suit 
should be dry cleaned thoroughly. 

To remove indelible ink stains on colored woolen goods, 
use a mixture of half Turpentine and half Ammonia; shake 
well before using. 

To remove Nitrate of Silver stains, a solution of Cyan¬ 
ide of Potassium will remove the stains sometimes. 


52 


Alkali Spots. 


A sour or Acetic water will remove nearly all spots 
that dry cleaning will not clean, but first all spots should 
be well brushed, as brushing often removes streaks and 
rings, that otherwise will cause trouble. Sometimes a ring 
will form by using the water; in such cases use Wood Al¬ 
cohol around the spots, and if it still requires water, use 
the water inside of the Alcohol ring. This is best done with 
a piece of cheese cloth or a soft brush and finished with a 
dry piece of cheese cloth. 

Waxes of all kinds, candy, grease or any other mineral 
oils of a liquid nature, are easily dissolved by Benzine, Gaso¬ 
line, Benzol, Carbon Tetrachloride, Amylacetate, Fusel Oil, 
Turpentine, Ether, or Chloroform, but usually these stains 
will easily yield to the simple methods of dry cleaning, by 
spotting same first and then dry cleaning. The harder 
stains of this nature, such as coal tar, asphaltum, road-oil, 
require much brushing with Carbon Tetrachloride or Fusel 
Oil, or any of the above mentioned chemicals. 

In removing starchy matters, such as starch, glucose, 
etc., use a weak solution of Ammonia and water; this is for 
mens ’ or dark clothes; brush same briskly, but rub moisture 
out of garment with a piece of cheese cloth. 

In Refreshing and Brightening up colored goods, use 
a solution of one ounce of Acetic, in from a pint to a quart 
of water; sponge same with a soft sponge, hang same in the 

53 


air to dry; this can also be used in removing water stains, 
beer or wine stains, from Pongees, silks or satins. If gar¬ 
ment should get stiff after using this Acetic Acid bath, have 
same dry cleaned for five to ten minutes in clean gasoline. 

To remove Blood Stains. For clothing that are very 
much blood stained, would advise same to be soaked in or¬ 
dinary cold water, for at least five to six hours, by adding 
a little Ammonia to the water to soften the same; garment 
should be scoured afterwards. For blood stains on clothing 
that have been dry cleaned, use one-half pint of distilled 
water, two tablespoonfuls of Acetic Acid, and one table¬ 
spoonful of Ammonia; mix them together, sponge carefully, 
rub over gently; add Acetic Acid to Ammonia, to make the 
solution stronger, if necessary. The mixture should be luke¬ 
warm; in case where you have trouble where color bleeds, 
advise you to have spotting chalk on hand, or an assortment 
of French dye colors, as some colors are very treacherous, 
and very often this solution will affect same. 

Perspiration Stains. 

Silks with perspiration stains should be sponged in hot 
water and soap. If you are unsuccessful with this prescrip¬ 
tion with the reddish stains, then use Ammonia and soap. 

Star Spotter and Formulas. 

Dissolve, by boiling in one quart of water, one-half 
ounce of Castile Soap, one-half ounce Gum Arabic, pow- 


54 


dered, let cool and add one ounce of Glycerine, one ounce 
Aqua Ammonia, one and one-half ounces Chloroform, two 
ounces Sulphuric Ether; this will make one quart Stock 
Solution Star Spotter. 

How to use this Star Spotter. 

Take a quart bottle and put about one inch of this stock 
solution in it, and add gasoline by degrees, only a trifle at 
a time, and shake well so gasoline will mix thoroughly until 
bottle is full. It will be thick and white like milk. This is 
an excellent spotter for Tar, Pitch, Heavy Oils, Paint, Var¬ 
nish, and if applied with a brush and afterwards rubbed 
well with a dry cloth and garment hung in the air spots 
can be removed from almost anything, without leaving rings. 
Always shake well before using. Many tailors are using 
this formula to-day, with very good results. 

Spotting Hints. 

For paint and perspiration stains on gloves, use Ada- 
lite, first softening the spot with gasoline and Pearline 
Washing Powder. If gloves have yellow stains, use only 
Pearline Washing Powder and Gasoline; clean gloves after¬ 
wards. 


Fruit Stains from Linen. 

Wet the spots with Chloring water, hang in the sun 
to dry. 


55 


Ink Stains from Linen. 


Wet the linen with Acetic Acid, rnb with salt and hang 
in the sun, or if weather does not permit this, hold by the 
fire to dry quickly. 

How to Clean Grease or Oil Spots from Marble. 

Take five cents worth of Chloride of Lime, with one- 
half pound of Plaster of Paris; make it to the consistency 
of much with water, spread this over themarble, and let it 
stand for a few hours; should the grease be very deep, make 
the lime stronger, but use for white marble only. 

How to Remove Spots from Wood. 

This is a very simple method. Lay some sawdust on the 
spot and put a trifle of Turpentine in the sawdust; set fire 
to the sawdust, and the sawdust will hold the heat until 
paint is so crisp that it can easily be scraped off. Try this 
method on a piece of wood, before trying it on a hard-wood 
floor or anything valuable, to get proper time. This must 
be worked quickly. 

To Remove Old Paint from Cotton Materials. 

Soak spot with Olive Oil, then use Chloroform; repeat 
if necessary till spot is removed. 

How to Remove Dye that Runs. 

Sometime or other you had a coat collar which was 
scrubbed with something that was too strong, and the color 

56 


from the collar foundation run into the goods of the coat. 
First remove the foundation, or piece of goods from which 
the color runs, take a good handful of coarse salt and wet 
same, making a strong salt bath, brush the part that is run 
with this bath, and hang in the sun; repeat this four to six 
times, and after same appears to be out, dry clean or brush 
part with clean gasoline. This method has been used often, 
by many of the larger cleaners. Replace foundation collar 
after color is clear. 

Formula for Dry Cleaner and Spotter. 

Add together Sulphuric Ether, Adolite and Chloro¬ 
form, each one ounce; Aqua Ammonia and Grain Alcohol, 
each two ounces; dissolve one cake of Cocoanut Oil Soap and 
one small box of Mule Team Borax in one gallon of distilled 
water; heat water just enough to dissolve soap and borax; 
remove from stove while cooling, add the liquids, mix thor¬ 
oughly and bottle for use, cork tightly. Adolite is a paint 
remover and can be bought of your paint dealer or drug 
store. This can be used for paint. 

Direction for Use. 

Use plenty of cleaner with a stiff brush or cloth, now 
wash cleaner out thoroughly with distilled water; when 
paint has become hard and dry cover the paint spots with 


57 


Gasoline, letting it remain over night, then clean thorough¬ 
ly with cleaner. For greasy felt hats, coat collars, for dry 
paint, etc., add four ounces of denatured alcohol to each 
quart of the cleaner. 


Formula for Ink Remover. 

Oxalic Acid and Chloride of Lime, each thirty grains; 
dissolve in four ounces of distilled water; add the juice of 
a lemon, strain and bottle. 


Direction. 


Cover spot with compound, do not rub; put garment 
out in the sun, wet again, lay blotting paper over ink, run 
over with hot iron; continue this until ink disappears. 

For Removing Shiny Spots from Worsted Goods. 

Grind rice to the consistency of ordinary corn meal; 
make a regular mush by mixing the rice meal with stronger 
alum water, cover the shiny parts with wash and let it 
stand and dry. Now take a stiff brush and brush briskly 
until all disappear; if necessary, wash spots with soft water. 

After the above process, you can raise the nap on goods 
as much as desired, by using fine emery paper, gently rub¬ 
bing it over shiny places, without injury to cloth. 


58 


French Dry Cleaner Formula. 



'-Uiir 


Gasoline, one-half gal¬ 
lon, wood alcohol, one 
ounce, spirits of ammo- 
nia, one-eiglith ounce, 
chloroform, one - half 
ounce, ether, one-half 
ounce, pulverized twenty 
mule team borax, one- 
eighth drachm. To use 
this use one ounce to five 


gallons of gasoline. This 
is also a good spotting compound. 


Paint Remover. 

Two ounces alcohol, two ounces of turpentine, two 
ounces of acetone, two ounces of ether, two ounces of gaso¬ 
line is good for hard paints. 

To Remove Rust Spots. 

Use six ounces of Bioxolate of Potash to one gallon of 
water, dissolve same in boiling water. This makes a good 
stock solution for spotting purposes. Use this solution for 
rust stains, about one ounce to one-half pint of boiling 
water, let same cool and put a few drops on the spots; this 
is also a good preparation for removing ink stains from 

white goods. 


59 











Paint Remover. 


This is a very good paint remover for old and hard 
paint. Four parts of dry cleaning soap, one part fusel oil, 
and three parts of chloroform. Put same in a bottle and 
cork with one of those squirt tops, same as used in a barber 
shop, and drop same on paint spot; scratch with finger nail 
or bone scraper. 

Indelible Ink Stains. 

Indelible ink made with silver nitrate may be removed 
with bichromate of mercury. Care should be exercised when 
using this chemical as it is very poisonous. 

Removing Turpentine Odor. 

Alcohol is the best thing to use for this purpose. If the 
garment is small enough to be put into container and cov¬ 
ered with alcohol, better results will be obtained. If the 
garment is a large one apply the alcohol to the portions of 

the garment where the turpentine has been spilled on it 
and remove by absorbing with a dry cloth. 

Varnish Stains. 

Varnish stains can generally be removed by the use 
of hot chloroform as a spotting agent. They may also be 
removed by scrubbing the garment with soap powder; how¬ 
ever, this latter method should not be used on fabrics like 
chinchilla as it tends to remove the curliness. If a spot 


60 


still remains after the varnish has been removed, it may be 
taken out with a solution of Strippine; should first be 
tested on the color of the garment, as many colors are easily 
discharged by this product. 

Treating Shiny Garments. 

The shine on garments is caused by rubbing the dirt 
that has been forced into the fibers. Some of the shine is 
removed in the dry cleaning process, when enough soap is 
used to free the dirt. If the goods are still shiny a good 
scrubbing with water, to which has eebn added alum in the 
proportion of one and one-half ounces of alum to each two 
quarts of water will help. The garment should then be 
dried and the shiny places carefully treated with fine sand¬ 
paper. Care should be exercised not to damage the goods 

bv this last mentioned treatment. 

«/ 

Scrubbing Fabrics. 

Many cleaners do not appreciate the damage that may be 
caused to a garment or a piece of wearing apparel by the 
improper use of the scrubbing brush, especially if the fabric 
being cleaned is of a delicate nature. In this connection 
the brush should be used only in one direction and under 
no circumstances should the fabric be scrubbed backward 
and forward, as in this case the bristles are sure to catch 
under the threads, and tear some of them out, thus weak- 


61 


ening it. If the directions are followed practically no harm 
will be done and most of the dirt will be disposed of. 

Egg Spots on Silk. 

Spotting with Chloroform will generally remove spots 
of this nature. However, if this does not give the desired 
results dampen the spot with a strong solution of soap and 
water, rub gently and remove with white blotting paper. 
Stains of this nature are sometimes difficult to eradicate, 
but the above mentioned method should accomplish the work. 

Preventing Heat Wrinkles. 

When working with wool in any form, it is desirable 
to avoid consecutive extremes of temperature. When the 
cleaning process is completed, rinse the goods in water hav¬ 
ing a temperature of about one hundred and forty degrees, 
thus gradually cooling the wool. At high temperatures 
the wool scales are soft and when immersed immediately in 
cold water they become stiff, forming what are known as 
heat wrinkles. 

Red Ink on Cream Colored Curtains. 

If the ink spots are small and scattered, Hypochlorite 
of Soda, used as a spotting agent, will probably remove 
them. This treatment may also remove the cream color 
from the curtains, but the white spots may be touched up 
with an alcohol solution of the dye that will give the desired 


62 


shade. If, however, the ink spots are too large and too 
localized to be removed by a spotting agent, the curtains 
may be bleached with Hypochrolite Soda. They should 
then be white, but may be dyed cream color by using any 
good leveling, fast to light, direct color. Of course, all red 
inks are not of the same composition, but the majority of 
them are colored with Eosine colors, which are bleached 
with Hypochlorite of Soda. This is prepared as follows-. 
Ten pounds of Chloride of Lime are stirred into ten gallons 
of water and allowed to settle. The clear liquid is then 
drawn off, and a solution of six pounds of soda in three 
gallons of water is added to it. Allow this to settle and the 
resulting clear liquid is Hypochlorite of Soda. For spotting 
purposes, it may be used at this strength, but for bleaching, 
the bath should register about one degree Twaddell. If 
bleach of this strength does not do the work properly, it 
may be made stronger. Bleach cold for one hour, then rinse 
and scour cold, using about two per cent. Bisulphite of 
Soda, and rinse. 

Spotting Formula for Silks. 

For one gallon use one ounce of Ammonia, one ounce 
of Chloroform, two ounces of Bay Rum, and one ounce of 
Sulphuric Ether; let stand six hours, then add one ounce 
of powdered borax, and then fill bottle with gasoline. Be 
careful to remove the cork of the bottle frequently to per 


63 


mit the gas to escape, as it may in shaking blow off the cork 
and get into your eyes. 

Another Formula for Spotting Silks. 

Four ounces of Castile Soap shaved fine in one pint 
of warm water in a gallon bottle • add three ounces of Am¬ 
monia, two ounces of Chloroform, and two ounces of Sul¬ 
phuric Ether, and fill the bottle with water. 

To Remove Blood Stains. 

To remove blood stains from carpets, clothing, etc., 
take an ordinary lump of starch, and mix the same with 
water to make a thick paste. Apply same to spots, putting 
it on very thick and let dry till starch can be scratched off. 
If stain is not removed, repeat this method. This also is 
used to remove ink stains from carpets. 

To Remove Sticky Fly Paper. 

Sticky fly-paper can be removed by using turpentine 
and if same is very hard or sticky, use wood alcohol. 

Grass Stains. 

Rub lightly with butter, hang in the sun and afterwards 
clean butter out with gasoline. If this does not remove 
stains scrub same with wood alcohol. 


64 


CHAPTER VI. 


Feather Cleaning, Dyeing and Curling. 



l/Je (Plea a 9/ /of (Pc/ ri ar/cl Dye your Ostrie// 
Fealliers.Phinjea and Pompoms. 


B Wc use 
no Acids and 
Pnaranlce no si/rinkape 
Prices raff/efpoi/t SO %wands 

— sP/so men uv — 


Plumes dry cleaned, get a dish large enough to accom¬ 
modate the article to be cleaned, and put in enough clean 
gasoline to cover. Put the plume in the gasoline, and let it 


65 



soak for a while. Take it out and lay it on a piece of glass 
or a clean board, and rub same good with dry cleaning soap, 
and rinse again in gasoline. Sprinkle the plume with 
French Chalk, or talcum powder, and rub same in thor¬ 
oughly with a soft cloth, hang same in the air till same is 
thoroughly dry, and after same is dry, beat surplus powder 
out. This method is not used by many cleaners, but some 
of the cleaners use it for quick or hurry up w^ork. 

Feathers Cleaned, Wet Process. 

1. Soak feathers in lukewarm water for one to two 
minutes. 

2. Wash feathers on a board with pure Castile Soap 
and lukewarm water. Use no brush. Rub feathers against 
the fibre, from stem to tip; when well washed rinse twice 
in lukewarm water. 

3. Use one-half ounce Oxalic Acid to one gallon of 
water for a bleach to cover feathers and allow the feathers 
to remain in bleach about three to four minutes. Always 
move the feathers around. 

4. Take out and wash twice in cold water. 

5. Dissolve a handful of pure lump starch in cold wa¬ 
ter and work feathers in this bath for one minute. Take out 
and add a drop of wash-blue, re-enter feathers for a second 
time; take out, squeeze out liquor and dry up in pure 
feather starch. Beat the feathers over a clean board. The 
more the feathers are beaten, the fluffier they will get. 


66 


Care must be taken what starch is used; ordinary 
starch contains ingredients which turn feathers yellow. If 
a cream white is wanted, leave out the feather blue. 

Feather Dyeing, Fancy Colors. 

Plumes and feathers that are to be dyed fancy colors 
must be thoroughly cleaned first and dyes are mixed with 
ordinary lump starch. Use ordinary analine dyes and mix 
same with water and strain thoroughly and put same in 
bottles, shade desired can easily be made by adding dye to 
starch water after feathers are dyed same should be beat in 
powdered starch, and hung up in the air or a warm room to 
dry, after same is dry beat starch out thoroughly. 

Feather Curling. 

Hold the plume between the thumb and fore finger cf 
the left hand, the fore finger should be held in such a man¬ 
ner to give support to the end of the plume, the best way 
is to hold the finger straight out under the quill, clasp the 
quill firmly with the remaining fingers of the left hand, 
now take the curling knife in the palm of the right hand 
and catch the first few fingers between the plate and the 
thumb and gently draw the fibre from the stem out and over 
the fore-finger towards the end, always turning the hand 
out hard in a wavy, curling motion; let the ends curl to fit 
over the fore-finger in the same manner as the mother 
curls the locks of the children, making one curl at the end. 


67 


Curl each number of fibres in this way and continue until 
entire plume is curled. Now take a coarse comb and comb 
out these curls, pressing the fibres under with the comb. 
Now bend tip of feather desired angle till same is shape 
that you want it. Be very careful and do not break the 
quill; if the feather is not curly enough, same will curl up 

more by letting the steam from the spout of the tea-kettle 
go through it, but do not hold feather too close to get mois¬ 
ture, this will often make a plume very curly. Feather 
curling is a knack and takes lots of experience to be success¬ 
ful in this line. 


Dyeing Feathers Black. 

Crone method.—Black being the most difficult color to 
produce, the feathers require a careful preparatory treat¬ 
ment, in order to remove everything that might interfere 
with the purity, uniformity and brilliancy of the color, or 
cause less dyed, dull spots and streaks. Naturally gray 
feathers, however, need not to be bleached or decolorized, 
but only careful treatment and attention. The feathers are 
for twenty-four hours laid down in a solution of twice 
their weight of Calcined Soda, then taken up and carefully 
rinsed clean from the alkaline in warm water, or better in 
two warm waters. In the case of particularly valuable 
feathers, it is recommendable, before laying them down in 
the Soda solution, to rub the stains of the feathers off with a 
piece of Carbonate of Ammonia or with a large Soda Crys- 


68 


tal. After rinsing, the feathers are entered for one hour 
at 170 degrees Fahrenhite, in a bath containing forty per 
cent, of the weight of the feathers, Bichromate of Potash, 
forty per cent. Copperas, twenty per cent. Tartar, and sev¬ 
eral times turned and agitated during the specified period 
while the entering temperature is maintained. Then the 
feathers are taken up, and the adhering liquid squeezed out 
by hand or by rolling them through a clothes wringer with 
rubber rollers. In the meantime, a Logwood bath of me¬ 
dium concentration is prepared either with a fresh decoction 
or with extract of logwood and twenty per cent. Marseilles 
soap dissolved in it. The feathers are entered in this bath 
at hand-heat, well worked for twenty or thirty minutes, and, 
if necessary, while the temperature is raised to 200 degrees 
F., laid down in the bath until the correct shade and a level 
dye are obtained. The feathers are then lifted, squeezed, 
very thoroughly, rinsed in cold water, passed through 
starch, and dried in the usual manner. 

Feather and Slipper Dyeing, Dry Process. 

A great many cleaners use the process of dry dyeing 
for feathers, satin slippers, laces, etc. The simplest way o 
make dyes for this kind of work, is to get ordinary tubes 
of oil paint and mix same with gasoline. These tubes can 
be bought in any color that is desired, and by combining 
various colors, any combination of shades can be made. In 
dyeing feathers or laces with these dyes, same should be 


69 


dipped in solution of dye. Feathers or article to be dyed 
should be thoroughly cleaned and dry before dyeing in ex¬ 
perimenting with this method, you will find that you will 
be able to get good results with a little experimenting. After 
you make up a certain color of dye, same can be put in a 
bottle and labeled and can be used at any time. There is 
practically very little waste to dry dyes. Laces and nets 
dyed same as feathers by dipping. Articles that are dipped 
should not be rinsed, but thoroughly squeezed out and hung 
up to dry. Kid and satin slippers, dye is applied with a 
brush same as painting or staining. It seems rather difficult 
to obtain dark shades by dye dyeing. This process is usu¬ 
ally used for hurry up work or articles that are dyed for a 
special occasion, as these articles dyed by this method will 
not stand any cleaning and usually fade if worn in daylight 
or sun. 


70 


CHAPTER VII. 


Pressing 



Most of the pressing 
done to-day is done by 
pressing machines, but a 
great many cleaners are 
using hand pressers, and 
the best class of trade 
prefers hand pressing to 
machine pressing. The 
tools required are a large 
buck, a sleevebuck, a 
large pad or cushion, a small pad or cushion, a puff iron, an 
ironing board, a gas or electric iron, a sweat cloth, and 
sponge. Some of these tools are illustrated below. Goods 
are mostly all pressed on the wrong side, except creases, 
which are put in from the right side. By doing same this 
way you will not get shine on garments. 


71 













Tools used by the Pressers. 


No. 1. Pressing the tops of trousers, turn trousers in¬ 
side out, be careful to keep pockets and linings free from 



wrinkles; press these on the wrong side, as shown, use cloth. 

No. 2. Pressing baggy part from knees, lay trousers 
flat on board, as shown, and take bags from knees on wrong 


side. Be very careful that you do not press wrinkles in 
taking out these baggy knees, as same should be shrunk from 
the wrong side. 



72 




No. 3. Putting creases in trousers, turn trousers on 
the right side and lay leg flat on the board. Put both seams 

on top of each other at the bottom and also at the crotch. 
Press same, and see that they are pressed thoroughly dry. 



This will make a good sharp crease. Crease both legs the 
same way. It is best to lay or put in back crease of trouser 
leg first; by doing this you are more careful in getting the 
curve in. 


73 





No. 4. Pressing coats, place the shoulder of the coat 
on the buck and smooth it out and press both shoulders on 
the wrong side; press thoroughly dry. 


74 









No. 5. Place back of coat collar on buck on the wrona* 

side, using small end of buck. Press this collar out thor¬ 
oughly. 



No. 6. Pressing the front and back of the coat, press 
as much on the wrong side as possible, and if the lapel is 
to be pressed, press same flat. If coat is English cut or 
roll effect, do not press lapels flat, let same roll effect. 


75 



No. 7. Pressing sleeves, lay flat on large end of buck, 
as shown, and press same; sometimes the sleeves are pressed 
in the front seam, and sometimes in back; press same as 



garment was formerly pressed. If coat is English cut do 
not press creases in sleeves; sleeves must be pressed on 
sleeve buck. 


76 


No. 8. To press the wrinkles out of the sleeve tops, 
insert small pad and press; pressing creases in back of coat, 
lay coat on buck and press creases in at the seam. Press 



coat with creases same as it was pressed before. If coat is 
English cut, do not put any creases in the back. 






No. 9. Pressing vests is done in the same manner, as 



coats are pressed; if possible, press same on the wrong side; 
this will avoid shine marks. 



No. 10. Pressing skirts, turn skirt on wrong side, and 
put top of skirt over large cushion and press top of skirt, 
as shown. Always use cushion in pressing tops of skirts 
to get curves in. 


78 






No. 1L Pressing body of skirt, lay same on board flat, 



as shown, and press entirely till finished; if skirt is pleated, 
pleats can be laid in and pressed with skirt. 



No. 12. In finishing net waists or fancy dresses or 
baby caps, use the puff iron as shown below; pull same over 
to take wrinkles out. In heating puff irons be very careful 
and do not scorch; always try puff iron by pulling a piece 
of muslin or rag over same to get temperature of heat. 


79 




In pressing always use a sweat cloth, and in pressing 
on the right side, if the cloth has a soft finish, dampen sweat 
cloth more than if cloth has a hard finish. If cloth has a 



hard finish, sweat cloth should he merely damp. Be very 
careful in pressing blue serges, as they gloss very easily 
from pressing, especially on the seams. Styles are subject 
to change and those things must be looked after as clothing 
are very often pressed according to the style. 

How to Press Velvets. 

How to press panne velvet, dampen the reverse side and 
lay the cloth flat on the ironing board, right side up; place 
a damp cloth over it and press with a very hot iron, using a 
steady stroke clear across the surface of the goods. Repeat 
the motion; always iron the way the nap runs; with every 


80 


stroke lap over the last stroke to prevent creasing. 

In steaming small pieces of velvet and ribbon velvets, 
dampen the back and pnll over the puff iron. If this 
method is properly manipulated, this will make velvet look 
almost like new. The author is using a velvet steamer made 
from a piece of asbestos cloth with a great many small 
curved pins about one-fourth inch in height sticking through 
the asbestos cloth; velvet is put on these pins, and the back 
of the asbestos cloth is moistered and pressed over with a 
hot iron. This velvet steamer was bought from a traveling 
man, and do not know the manufacturer or who sells the 
same, but it certainly is a wonderful and good appliance to 
do this work. 


81 




























































. 









. 








USEFUL HINTS 






CHAPTER VIII. 


USEFUL HINTS 


Inspecting Finished Work 


If the cleaners all over 
the country, large or 
small, will adopt a sys¬ 
tem of inspecting their 
work before the same 
leaves the shop, I believe 
it will be the best and 
cheapest advertising for 
any establishment. Ev¬ 
ery garment should he 
thoroughly inspected, creases should always be even, 
and creases should also be put in good, not too hard, 
but good; garments should not have any press shine 
on them and all wrinkles should be out. Pockets 
should be inspected, and if same have rips or holes they 
should be repaired. Any little rip or tear in the lin¬ 
ing should be repaired, trousers should be fixed at the 



85 







bottom, buttons should be replaced, if they are missing 
or broken, and if there are any short on the coat 
sleeves, try and match same, and if same cannot be matched, 
sometimes, you may take one from one sleeve and place it 
on the other to even them up. Be very particular about 
these small items, as it will help to boost business. If your 
customers have any peculiar ideas in advising you how they 
wish their clothes pressed, always favor them, as these little 
ideas help very much to please the trade. If at any time, 
in looking over a gray or tan pressed suit, you notice sur¬ 
face spots or water marks, take a small piece of very fine 
sand paper and rub gently over spot till same disappears. 
If in taking in a. garment, a customer leaves a lodge pin, 
pocket knife, etc., take same out and put in an envelope and 
write customer’s name on it, and after garment is cleaned 
and pressed, put same in pocket again in envelope. The 
article you find may not be worth much, but it will impress 
your customer, that he is dealing with a good, reliable 
establishment, and he will not forget this small favor. 


USEFUL FORMULAS. 

Cement for Cracked Steam and Water Pipes. 

Six parts of red lead, three parts of dry white lead, three 
parts manganese, three parts silicate of soda, half part lith¬ 
arge. 


86 



Cement for Cylinder Heads and High Pressure Steam 

Joints. 

Six parts of red lead, three parts of dry white lead, 
three parts manganese, three parts silicate of soda, half part 
litharge. 


Indelible Marking Ink. 

Nitrate of silver, one and one-half ounce, dissolved in 
six ounces of liquid ammonia, Fortis Orchil, to color one 
ounce, gum arabic, to give body. 

Paint for Iron Subject to Heat. 

Mix into one gallon of Asphaltum, one ounce of Hypo¬ 
sulphite of Soda; this hardens with heat. The Asphaltum 
must be pure Turpentine dissolved, not for such as stoves. 

To Heat Gasoline in Small Quantities. 

Fill a bucket half full of gasoline, and take an ordinary 
flat-iron, make hot, but not red hot, and put same in gaso¬ 
line ; it will heat same instantly. Do not have gasoline near 
fire, as fumes are very great in heating. 

To Join Glass Together. 

Take a little isinglass, and melt it in spirits of wine; 
it will form a transparent glue, which will unite glass so 

87 


that it cannot be seen. The greatest care is necessary that 
the spirits of wine shall not boil over into the fire. 

To Make Silvering Powder. 

Get from a drug store one ounce of what is called Hy- 
drargirum (Gum Creta), and mix it with four ounces of 
prepared chalk. Used to give a silver polish to Brass, Cop¬ 
per, Brittania Ware, etc. To be rubbed on with a dry cloth. 

Arsenical Paste. 

Melt two pounds of suet in an earthen vessel over a 
slow fire, and add two pounds of wheat flour, three ounces 
of levigated white arsenic, two and one-half drachms of 
lamp-black, fifteen drops of oil of aniseed. It may be used 
alone, or mixed with bread, crumbs, etc., for destroying 
rats and mice. 1 


Tracing Paper. 

Paper well wetted with Canada Balsam and camphin *, 
and dried. 


Genuine Erasive Soap. 

Two pounds of good castile soap, half a pound of car¬ 
bonate of potash; dissolve in half a pint of hot water. Cut 
the soap in thin slices and boil the soap with the potash 


88 


until it is thick enough to mould into cakes; also add alco¬ 
hol, half an ounce; camphor, half an ounce; hartshorn, half 
an ounce; color with half an ounce of pulverized charcoal. 


Hard White Soap. 

To fifteen pounds of lard or suet, made boiling hot, add 
slowly six gallons of hot lye, or solution of potash, that will 
hear up an egg high enough to leave a piece big as a shilling 
bare. Take out a little, and cool it. If no grease rises, it 
is done. If any grease appears, add lye and boil until no 
grease rises. Add three quarts of fine salt, and boil up 
again. If this does not harden well on cooling, add more 
salt. If it is to be perfumed, melt it next day, add the 
perfume, and run it in moulds or cut in cakes. 


India-rubber Blacking. 

Ivory black, sixty pounds, treacle, forty-five pounds, 
good vinegar and oil of vitriol, of each twelve pounds, India 
rubber oil, nine pounds, mix. 

% 

To Take Stains of Grease from Wool and Silk. 

Three ounces of spirits of wine, three ounces of French 
chalk, powdered, and five ounces of pipe-clay. Mix the 
above ingredients, and make them up in rolls about the 
length of a finger, and you will find them a never-failing 


89 


remedy for removing grease from woolen or silk goods. 
N. B.—It is applied by rubbing on the spot either wet or 
dry, and afterwards brushing the place. 


Easy and Safe Method of Discharging Grease from 

Woolen Cloths. 

Fullers earth, or tobacco pipe clay, being put wet on 
an oil spot, absorbs the oil as the water evaporates, and 
leaves the vegetable or animal fibres of the cloth clean on 
being beaten or brushed out. When the spot is occasioned 
by tallow or wax, it is necessary to heat the part cautiously 
by an iron or the fire while the cloth is dying. In some 
kinds of goods, blotting-paper, bran, or raw starch, may be 
used with advantage. 

To Take Out Spots of Ink. 

As soon as the accident happens, wet the place with the 
juice of sorrel or lemon, or with vinegar, and the best hard 
white soap. 


To Take Iron Molds Out of Linen. 

Hold the iron-mold on the cover of a tankard of boil¬ 
ing water, and rub on the spot a little juice of sorrel and a 
little salt; and when the cloth has thoroughly imbibed the 
juice, wash it in lye. 


90 


To Take Out Spots on Silk. 


Rub the spots with spirits of turpentine; this spirit ex¬ 
haling, carries off with it the oil that causes the spot. 


To Take Wax Out of Velvet of all Colors except 

Crimson. 

Take a crumby wheaten loaf, cut it in two, toast it be¬ 
fore the fire, and, while very hot, apply it to the part spotted 
with wax. 


Waterproof Compound. 

Suet, eight ounces, linseed oil, eight ounces, yellow bees¬ 
wax, six ounces, neatsfoot oil, one and one-half ounces, lamp¬ 
black, one ounce, litharge, one-half ounce. Melt together, 
and stir till cold. 


How to Make Fly Poison. 

A common poison for the flies consists of white arsenic 
or king’s yellow, with sugar, etc.; but the use of such com¬ 
pounds may lead to fatal accidents. A sweetened infusion 
of quassia answers the same purpose, and is free from dan¬ 
ger. Pepper, with milk, is also used; and also some adhesive 
compounds, by which they are fatally entangled. 


91 


Nankin Dye. 


Take Arnotto and prepared Kali, equal parts, boiled 
in water; the proportion of Kali is altered, as the color is 
required to be deeper or lighter. Used to restore the color 
of faded Nankin clothing, or to dye new goods of a Nankin 
color. 

Electro-Gilding. 

Electro gilding is thus performed: A solution of five 
ounces of gold is prepared and boiled till it ceases to give 
out yellow vapors; the clear solution is mixed with four gal¬ 
lons of water, twenty pounds of Bicarbonate of Potash add¬ 
ed, and the whole boiled for two hours. The articles prop¬ 
erly cleaned, are suspended on wires, and moved about in 
the liquid from a few seconds to a minute, then washed, 
dried, and colored in the usual way. The solution used in 
gilding with the voltaic apparatus is made by dissolving 
one-half ounce of oxide of gold with two ounces of Cyanide 
of Potassium, in a pint of distilled water. 


Balls for Cleaning Clothes. 

Bathbrick four parts, pipe-clay eight parts, pumice one 
part, soft-soap one part, ochre, umber, or other color to 
bring it to the desired shade, sufficient ox-gall to form a 
paste. Make into balls, and dry them. 


92 


Silvering Compound. 


Nitrate of silver, one part, cyanide of potassium (Lie¬ 
big’s) three parts, water sufficient to form a thick paste. 
A PPly it with a rag. A bath for the same purpose is. 

Eye Water. 

Take one pint of rose water, and add one teaspoonful 
each of spirits of camphor and laudanum. Mix and bottle. 
To be shaken and applied to the eyes as often as necessary. 
Perfectly harmless. 

Blistering Liniment. 

Powdered Spanish flies, one ounce; spirits of turpen¬ 
tine, six ounces. Rub on the belly for pain in the bowels, or 
on the surface for internal inflammation. 

Lotion for Blows, Bruises, Sprains, Etc. 

One part laudanum, two parts oil origanum, four parts 
water ammonia, four parts oil of turpentine, four parts 
camphor, thirty-two parts spirits of wine. Put them into a 
bottle, and shake them until mixed. 

Cold Soap. 

Mix twenty-six pounds of melted and strained grease 
with four pailfuls of lye, made of twenty pounds of white 
potash. Let the whole stand in the sun, stirring frequently 
in the course of a week, fill the barrel with weak lye. 


93 


For Scalds and Burns. 


Cover burn with ordinary cooking Soda and then lay a 
wet cloth over it. 


AVhen Hanging Curtains. 

To run a brass rod through them, place a thimble at 
the end of brass rod. 

To Prevent Dampness. 

In damp weather always place a small wooden box 
filled with lime in the room which you wish to remove the 
dampness from, this will keep the air dry and sweet, as 
the lime absorbs the dampness. 

To Remove Mildew from Linen. 

Mix soft soap and powdered starch, half as much salt, 
and juice of one lemon, rub the linen well in this solution 
and let it lie on the grass for a day and night. This treat¬ 
ment will remove mildew stains without harming the finest 
linen. 


94 


CHOOSE WITH CARE! 



That Cleaning Machine you buy will be in your shop a long 
time. The careful chooser cannot fail to be impressed with the 
sterling qualities of the 

BETZER 

Combined Cleaner and Extractor 


Your success or failure depends upon the start—hundreds of 
Cleaners attribute their success to “THE BETZER,” which has a 
national reputation. Not only have we machines in every State 
in the Union, but in many Foreign Countries. You can’t afford 
to be without a machine of some kind, so why not buy the best 
and get one machine that does both the CLEANING and EX¬ 
TRACTING, two machines in one. 

Hand power, cog or friction gear, steel or cast frame, a 4-suit 
size for $25.00, and a 6-suit size for $35.00. 

Write for Catalogue 

HICKMAN MFG. CO., Kansas City, Mo. 













++♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ 


|WhyA 

x> 

\ GARMENT 

X ► 

X ► 

1 DUSTER? 



♦ 



Dry Cleaners using this Garment Duster with the 
brushes claim that it enables them, 

To save 50% on gasoline 

Eliminate hand dusting 

Eliminate 50% of gasoline cleaning on dark goods, es¬ 
pecially tailor work 

Handle overcoats and other heavy garments at an in¬ 
creased profit 

Clean dark goods without rinsing 

Air dry and deodorize in 20 to 30 minutes without a 
steam coil 

Enables one presser and pressing machine to do the 
work of two 

Clean rugs and portieres without lint from rugs getting 
on garments 

It pays for itself in a month. It costs more to be with¬ 
out it than to buy it. 

WE ALSO MANUFACTURE a large line of wood and 
metal Washers, hand and power Extractors, Steam Boards, 
Tumbler Dry Rooms, Feather Renovators, Fans and 
Carnet Cleaners. 

We do a mail order business and can guarantee you a 
saving of 10% to 20%. 

No order too large—none too small. 


- Cleveland Laundry Machinery Manufacturing Co. 


Manufacturers of Laundry, Carpet Cleaning and Dry Cleaning Machinery 


55th Street and Erie Ry. CLEVELAND, OHIO 














$10.50,$12.50 BUYS THE EFFICIENT BALER 
or $15.50 TO FIT YOUR BUSINESS 

$10.50 buys our MERCHANT’S Baler No. 1. $12.50 buys our 
MERCHANT’S Baler No. 2. We have always advertised and 
recommended our No. 3 Baler, at $15.50, for the highest effi¬ 
ciency. Its larger capacity makes possible a saving of both 
time and money which we think warrants the slight added cost. 
We firmly believe, however, that our lower priced balers, at 
$10.50 and $12.50, represent the best values on the market at 
these prices. All MERCHANT’S Balers are sent on ten days’ 
free trial, under our two-year, iron-clad guarantee. 


MERCHANTS BALER 


The Practical Baler for 
Every Size Business. 



Buy the Baler to fit your 
business. Every MER¬ 
CHANT’S Baler is strongly 
built for practical use. 
Every inch of space is util¬ 
ized to the greatest advan¬ 
tage. The big open top 
makes dumping easy. All 
three sizes are steel bound 
and strongly re-inforced 
throughout — guaranteed 
against breakage or defect. 
Note the divergent sides*— 
these permit the bale to drop 
out of baler easily. With 
each Baler we furnish com¬ 
plete equipment to obtain 
best results, including one 
hook for handling hales, one 
time-saving tamper, one 
lever for screw, and wire 
for baling one thousand 
pounds of paper. 

Use 10 Days FREE 

We will send anv MER¬ 
CHANT’S Baler for ten 
days’ free trial in your 
business, together with com¬ 
plete instructions for opera¬ 
tion, and information on 
where to sell waste paper. 
Mail the coupon. Get the 
baler to fit your business— 
and begin to save money on 
your waste paper now. 

CRANE MFG. CO. 

Dept. A-8 

GALESBURG, - ILL. 


CRANE MFG. CO., (Dept. A-8), Galesburg, III. 

Please send me one MERCHANT’S Baler, 


as 


checked. I will 


Baler 10 days, at the end of which time I will either return it to 
send you its purchase price. 

(Check as desired) 

—MERCHANT’S Baler No. 1—$10.50 
—MERCHANT’S Baler No. 2—$12.50 
—MERCHANT’S Baler No. 3—$15.50 

If in Canada, address: Stephenson Blake & Co., Toronto, Can. 


use the 
you or 


Name 

Address 


Our Bank is 




























































4 ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ 4 

♦ 

f 

+ 

The 

National Cleaner and Dyer 


A MONTHLY JOURNAL FOR 


Master Cleaners and Dyers 

^ Subscription Price $2.00 per year 

This publication should be read regularly by every 
Master Cleaner and Dyer, as it will keep him posted on all 
new methods, machinery and supplies. The trade is pro¬ 
gressing so rapidly that it is necessary to study constantly 
in order to keep up with the times. 

The National Cleaner and Dyer has a large corps of 
technical contributors who keep the readers informed as 
to advanced methods of producing work, and others who 
cover the subjects of cost keeping, office methods, delivery 
systems, advertising, etc. 

Nearly every Master Cleaner and Dyer subscribes for 
it, but if you are one of the few who do not, send your 
$2.00 today. Address 


NATIONAL CLEANER AND DYER 


▼ 


120 ANN STREET, 


CHICAGO, ILL. 




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++++++++- 


l Cleaners and Dyers 

RUN YOUR BUSINESS RIGHT, 

BY COVERING THE ENTIRE FIELD. 


-«► \ou are not right if you leave out of your business plans 

^ the handling of orders for 

-<► 

-<► 

^ Ostrich Feather Renovating & Dress Pleating 


t 


It costs you practically nothing to include these two 
branches on your printed matter, stationery and adver¬ 
tising. They are sure to bring you, not only orders 
and profits for their work, but considerable clothes’ work 
that you would not otherwise get. 

It Pays To Cater To Your Customers’ Needs in cleaning <>- 
all their clothes and wearing apparel. 

Tie up to us on Ostrich Feather and Dress Pleating ^ 
Work. We have made a careful study of the Cleaners’ 
and Dyers’ needs as related to our business. 

We have simplified everything and have it in Printed 
Form. Send for Booklet Free, “How to Make Ostrich 
Feather Renovating Pay,” also for General Information £ 
on “How to Get the Dress Pleating Work in Your Town.” 


St. Louis Plume & Pleating Company ~ 

- 620 NORTH BROADWAY, - ST. LOUIS, MO. f 

-< ► 











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, Pioneer manufacturers of the largest and 

Metal bhell Power Washer most modern line of Dry Cleaning Machinery 

in the World. 




















Felt-Pad Skirt or 
Trouser Hanger 

Hardwood 7 or 8 inches 
long 

$4.50 per hundred 

Your add printed Free 


Combination Suit Hanger 

No. 272 

$5.00 per Hundred 

Your Add printed Free 

Dry Cleaners’ Hanger 


Tailor’s Pinch Trouser 
Hanger 

No. 23 K 


Adjustable to any size. Trousers. 
Hangs from top or bottom. 

Per Dozen - - $ 1.00 

Per C - 8.00 

Per Gross - - 10.50 


No. 10 

Made of coppered wire with 
hardwood trouser bar. An ex¬ 
cellent delivery hanger. 

PerC - $ 2.50 

Per M - 17.50 

Per 5M - - 16.50 

NET CASH PRICES 

Your add printed Free 


Oxalene Paint and Spot Remover 

We guarantee. Removes Paint, Grease, Oil and Sugar Spots 
without injury to the goods. Oxaline is non-inflamable. Oxa¬ 
lene leavs no rings. 

Two Quart Bottle $1.50—Gallon Bottle $2.50 

Highest Quality—Prompt Service 
Send for our Complete Catalogue of Dry Cleaners’ Supplies 

l THE N. W. CHAMBERLAIN COMPANY 

The House of Quality 

1 Blackstone Building, CLEVELAND, OHIO 
























::We Save You Money:: 


There are special reasons why we can save you money 
on any Dry Cleaning Machinery you may desire. 

1st. No concern manufactures as large a line as we 
do. We are manufacturing Dry Cleaning Machines that 
are made by absolutely no other concern. 

2nd. We have been making these machines for over 19 
years. Every element of the experimental has been en¬ 
tirely eliminated. All our machines are strictly up-to- 
date. We are using only the most expert mechanical skill 
obtainable and the very best material that money can 
buy. 

3rd. We are doing distinctively a mail order business 

and when you buy of us, you don’t have to help pay the 
salary of a high-priced salesman who puts up at expensive 
hotels and travels on limited trains. These expenses we 
save you, so that we can quote you prices 10 to 20% lower 
than you can get elsewhere. 

This, together with our superior line of machinery, is 
the reason why we ought to get your business. 

We are the largest manufacturers of Carpet Cleaners in 
the world and can tell you exactly the size machine on 
which in your town you can make the most money. This 4- 
is a line that Dry Cleaners the country over are now 
adding. 


^ Cleveland Laundry Machinery Mfg. Co. ^ 

Manufacturers of Laundry, Carpet Cleaning and Dry Cleaning Machinery 


East 55th Street and Erie Ry. 


CLEVELAND, OHIO 









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44444+4 ♦4444444't 


In the manufacture of Benzine Soap for dry cleaning 
purposes, the first important feature is to secure the 
proper raw materials. And next, the ability to combine 
those ingredients to produce the right kind of soap. 


“BUCKEYE” 

DRY CLEANING I 

SOAP 


is the result of long laboratory research, together with 
practical experience in the Wash Room. Its ingredients 
are so carefully and scientifically combined as to produce a 
well balanced soap with the maximum cleansing proper¬ 
ties. 

Dissolves readily in cold benzine 
Rinses quickly and thoroughly 
Leaves no odor in goods 
Cleans things clean 
Uniform in quality 
Saves money on Soap bills. 


Endorsed by leading dry cleaners Write for sample and prices 

THE DA VIES-YOUNG SOAP CO. 

DAYTON, OHIO. 


.»»»» »»444444444444444444444444444444444444 



. ♦♦♦♦♦« . ♦♦♦♦♦$ 

I Combination Washer 
I Extractor Glove Cleaner 


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$25.00 up 



Pat’d in U. S. and Foreign Countries 


WRITE FOR BOOKLET 


VOLVOX MACHINE CO. 

INCORPORATED 

323 East 54th Street, NEW YORK 





































Be 

Plume-wise 



Piume-ize 

and 

Advertize 


Plume-ize means to intensify your business—to get the great¬ 
est amount of “motive power” out of the dollars you feed into 
your “publicity engine.” 

PLUME-IZE YOUR BUSINESS 

Save on your advertising bills by getting in touch with us for 
publicity matter that pays. Our line consists of illustrated 
mailing cards and folders in black or colors; advertising plates 
for newspaper use, and hand-colored advertising slides—every¬ 
thing to boost your business. 

EDWARD C. PLUME COMPANY 

Greatest Advertising SeTvice Company 

417-421 So. Dearborn St. Chicago, Ill. 

-<► 

? MR. CLEANER OR TAILOR 

You often get a job which you are doubtful about. 
Write us for our Trade Prices. We are doing work 
for small Cleaners, Tailors and Stores in 13 States 
of the Union. 


You Know the Reason Why We Hold This Trade. 

QUALITY COUNTS IN DRY CLEANING AND DYEING 


STAR CLEANERS & DYERS 
Dry Cleaning that Cleans 

937 Hamilton Street Both Phones Allentown, Pa. 
















































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